The purpose of the visit to Oiapoque, situated on the border between Brazil and French Guiana, is to learn more about the cassava witches' broom disease, which has already "spread" to Suriname. An exhibition at the local museum is dedicated to this subject.

"Passeport, s'il vous plaît!" No fewer than four times, at four different locations, we were asked this question this morning in French Guiana. A letter bearing the header "Autorisation exceptionnelle d'entrée en Guyane" did not immediately convince every checkpoint—but the visa stamp did. Eventually, after ten hours of travel by road, we drive across the bridge over the Oiapoque River.

The aforementioned town, with a population of approximately 28,000 inhabitants, is described by some as a frontier town. As elsewhere in rural Brazil, the soil is red, drainage is poor, and in the centre, which has only two traffic lights, a jumble of shops selling variedades lines the streets. The Brazilians compensate for the internet shortage with Starlink.

Impact

Oiapoque may have a lower level of amenities, but it is certainly lively. Many French visitors come for a day trip to the more affordable Oiapoque. Options for hotels or pousadas (inns) are plentiful. In addition to these small accommodations, large hotels are also under construction, although they are not intended exclusively for this target group. Off the coast of Oiapoque, oil discoveries have been made, bringing with them considerable impact. A small oil leak has already occurred during the exploration phase, which Petrobras, on behalf of the Brazilian government, has classified as non-hazardous.

‘If they pollute our rivers, what will become of us?’: the town divided between hope and fear in Brazil’s Amazon oil rush | Oil | The Guardian

Indigenous Territory

At the Kuahí Indigenous Museum, named after a well-known fish species in the region, we learned on the first working day that these developments are placing pressure on the indigenous population. "Life is becoming more expensive, and both the town and its population are expanding." More than a quarter of Oiapoque's population is indigenous, divided into the following four tribes: Karipuna, Palikur, Galibi Marworno, and Galibi Kali'na. In the distant past, the 'Galibi group' moved from the Mana and Marowijne rivers to Oiapoque, and they still speak the language. Galibi do Oiapoque - Indigenous Peoples in Brazil

BR-156

A scale model in the museum shows that the indigenous villages, totaling 67, are situated in three demarcated indigenous territories. The total area of the indigenous territory is 518,000 hectares and comprises Uaçá, Juminã, and Galibi. To protect their territory, six villages were established along the BR-156 highway during its construction in Uaçá. Three of these villages we will visit in the coming days in connection with the cassava witches' broom disease.

Income Constraints

An exhibition on this disease—the primary reason for our visit—shows that the number of cassava varieties has now been decimated from 182 to 59. An exhibition on this disease—the primary reason for our return visit—shows that the number of cassava varieties has now been decimated from 182 to 59. In the past, the indigenous people sold their farinha or cassava flour; now they have to buy it in town. By diversifying their crops with other produce and fruit trees, they are attempting to mitigate the reduction in their income. In addition to exhibition halls, the Kuahí Museum also features multifunctional spaces.

The knowledge-exchange mission was made possible by the UNDP project "Women-Led Indigenous Action Against Cassava Witches' Broom Disease," which is funded by the High Commission Fund of the Government of New Zealand. The project aims to strengthen the capacity of Indigenous communities in Suriname, particularly Indigenous women farmers, to detect, prevent, and manage CWBD through practical, community-based actions. In a series of short reports, the activities carried out during the knowledge-exchange mission will be highlighted.