How One Young Man's Journey Transformed Access to Justice in Lamu

By Muviazalwa Ibrahim

November 5, 2025
Bold yellow title over a sunset harbor cityscape with water reflections; tagline 'When Justice Crosses Water'.

When Wallid was growing up in Matondoni, a small village on one of Lamu's thirty scattered islands, justice was something that happened elsewhere to other people. If someone was wronged, they went to an elder or a religious leader. The police were seen as enemies. Courts were a distant concept, both geographically and culturally, requiring expensive boat rides and a full day's journey just to reach.

"Where I come from, up to date we don't have a police station," says Wallid, now 28 and Executive Director of Muslims for Human Rights (MUHURI), one of Kenya's leading human rights organizations. "If today something happens to me or happens to anybody, if somebody is murdered in Matondoni Village or Kipongani Village, you have to have a police intervention coming from Lamu. That is one hour away, at the least."

This is the reality of justice in Lamu County, sixty years after Kenya's independence. But thanks to the Partnership for Legal Empowerment and Aid Delivery (PLEAD) initiative, supported by the European Union and implemented by UNDP, that reality is changing and Wallid's own unlikely journey mirrors that transformation.

A Winding Path to Purpose

Wallid never imagined he would become a champion for human rights and access to justice. Like many children, his dreams shifted with each new experience: pilot when he saw planes overhead, doctor when he recovered from illness, lawyer when he watched courtroom dramas on television.

Photograph of an outdoor interview; man in white shirt speaks into a microphone.

"I was inspired by Readington's lifestyle," he laughs, referring to a character from the crime series he watched during school holidays. "At first, I didn't want to be on the positive side. I was inspired by the lifestyle and all that. I was like, I want to be on this other side of crime where money is."

But reality has a way of redirecting youthful ambitions. When Wallid entered university to study criminology and criminal justice, he quickly learned that career prospects were limited to police stations or prosecution offices. During his attachment period, when he tried to apply to police stations in Mombasa, an Officer Commanding Station told him bluntly: "The only person who we have here, you have to pass through Kiganjo [police training college] to be here."

Desperate and Googling alternatives, Wallid discovered MUHURI. He applied, was accepted, and on his very first day found himself at a post-mortem examination for three men who had been electrocuted at an Indian company in Changamwe.

"I was looking at the guy, I was like, are you serious? I'm going to see dead bodies. My first day," Wallid recalls. "That day we did three post-mortems."

It was a baptism by fire into the world of human rights work responding to violations, documenting evidence, supporting families seeking justice. But it ignited something in Wallid that his years of shifting career dreams never had.

"I've always had that interest, but I've never put a name to it," he explains. "So finally, here was something that defined that space, and gave it a purpose."

The Justice Gap in Lamu

That purpose became clearer when Wallid returned to work in his home county of Lamu. What he found was a justice system that existed in name only for most residents.

Lamu County is an archipelago of thirty islands off Kenya's northern coast, with populations scattered across remote villages accessible only by boat. The geography alone creates massive barriers to justice. But the challenges run deeper than distance.

"Lamu is one place that defines, if you ask me, that defines and gives meaning to what marginalization is," Wallid says with conviction. "Had I not gone to Western Kenya for education, I would be somewhere here doing manual jobs, for a fact."

The marginalization is comprehensive: inadequate schools, poor infrastructure, absent government services. The court system, such as it exists, operates from a rented building on Lamu Island. Police stations are few and far between. For residents of Lamu East, accessing any justice service can cost 40,000-45,000 Kenyan shillings in transport alone more than many families earn in a month.

"People had no faith in the existence of a government that was serving people, let alone the provision of justice actors and mechanisms," Wallid explains.

Into this vacuum, traditional and religious systems filled the space. Disputes were resolved by elders through masla compensation paid to victims. While this worked for minor property crimes, it failed catastrophically for serious violations like rape, domestic violence, and repeat offenses.

"We had repeat offenders. Somebody today steals, tomorrow steals another place, tomorrow, aggravated crime every day, and now the elders can no longer sit down," says Wallid. "We came to define that there were victims, and it was not only retributive or restorative, justice had various angles."

PLEAD: A Lifeline, Not Just an Intervention

When the PLEAD programme arrived in Lamu in 2019, MUHURI was ready. The organization had identified the gaps; PLEAD provided the resources and framework to address them systematically.

The first innovation was mobile courts. Rather than expecting people to travel to Lamu Island, MUHURI worked with PLEAD to bring magistrates, court staff, and Kadhi courts directly to communities in Lamu East.

"People were surprised. Some people asked, 'Is this from the government?' Because whenever they see judiciary, they were asking, 'Are you from Kenya?'" Wallid recalls. "Because whenever we go to that side, they don't get services from the government of Kenya frequently."

The first mobile Kadhi court registered over 200 marriage certificates representing at least 400 people who had been living in partnerships, some for decades, without legal documentation. Among them was an 85-year-old man and his 83-year-old wife, married for over fifty years without a certificate.

"Neither did they want it, because they didn't feel the importance of it," Wallid explains. But without documentation, widows couldn't inherit property, children couldn't prove parentage, and families descended into conflict over estates.

PLEAD supported MUHURI to establish Alternative Dispute Resolution (ADR) centers in both Lamu West and Mpeketoni, providing mediation and arbitration services for family disputes, child custody cases, and land conflicts. Staff were trained by the Paralegal Association of Kenya, and the judiciary began referring cases to these centers to address court backlogs.

Perhaps most innovative was the digitization of court access. Recognizing that police and prisons lacked budgets to transport prisoners to court, PLEAD supported MUHURI to equip police stations and prisons with computers and internet connectivity for virtual court sessions. "At the moment even if you are a citizen and you've been told that your case is at the court in Lamu and it's a virtual court, you just walk to the police station and there's a device and you just access," Wallid explains.

People sit around a small wooden table in a sunlit courtyard, sharing tea.

Building Systems, Not Just Services

But PLEAD's impact went beyond infrastructure. The programme helped MUHURI build sustainable systems for coordination and accountability.

One critical innovation was the Gender Technical Working Group, which brought together all actors working on gender-based violence government agencies, police, prosecutors, judiciary, and civil society under one coordinated framework.

"We said no, we need to have all these actors in one space where we can provide checks and balances so that there is no corruption or anything," Wallid explains. With the County Commissioner as chair, the magistrate as co-chair, and MUHURI as secretary, cases could no longer be "killed" through bribery or interference at any single point in the system. 

The group's WhatsApp platform ensures that once a case is reported, all actors are aware and accountable. When a defilement case occurred in Matondoni, the coordinated response prevented the interference that had derailed so many cases before.

PLEAD also supported capacity building for community paralegals, Nyumba Kumi (neighborhood watch) structures, doctors providing medical evidence, and police responding to gender-based violence cases.

"We started capacity strengthening sessions, we started giving recognition to these small actors that were perceived small such as Nyumba Kumi. We gave them IDs to show them that you are the vital people in this system," says Wallid.

The Challenge of Success

Today, MUHURI has become so central to access to justice in Lamu that it faces an unexpected challenge: people think it's part of the government.

"That's the level of hope," Wallid says. "You might sit somewhere and then somebody threatens you with 'I'll take you to MUHURI.” At a recent security meeting, chiefs complained that their reports weren't acted upon unless they went through MUHURI. Police and prosecutors routinely refer cases to the organization. Citizens call asking for someone to accompany them to the police station.

"Today we are having a headache of how we will have to sustain whatever we have been doing if PLEAD was to transition," Wallid admits. "This community does not know that there is a program that can end or this service can end. They believe this is what MUHURI is an office that does this."

The organization is working on sustainability: securing new funding from SIDA, connecting paralegals to other organizations, and advocating for government investment in the systems PLEAD helped establish. But the need remains urgent.

Why the European Union’s partnership matters now

The European Union has been the catalytic donor behind PLEAD from its launch in 2018 to the present, funding a justice reform partnership coimplemented by UNDP and UNODC with Kenya’s justice institutions and civil society. PLEAD’s second phase (PLEAD II) began in March 2023, with EUR 35.3 million to 2027 and an expanded footprint from 12 to 19 focal counties deepening digitalization, bolstering anticorruption efforts, and prioritizing the most vulnerable. Lamu is one of the places where this promise becomes a person, a case, and a verdict that arrives.

That architecture of support EU resources, UN implementation, national leadership, and local civil society—solves puzzles no single actor can: making the Constitution’s promise of access to justice walk the last mile; converting policecommunity mistrust into collaboration; and ensuring that when a survivor decides to report, the system is ready to respond.

A Lifeline, Not Just an Intervention

"PLEAD on this side of the country is more of a lifeline than an intervention," Wallid emphasizes. "Sometimes we say PLEAD or as a civic society we are complementing the judiciary service system. But when you come to this side of the country, we are the fundamental we are the foundations of the judicial system on this side."

Wallid's journey from a boy in Matondoni dreaming of being a pilot to the executive director of an organization that has transformed access to justice for hundreds of thousands of people mirrors the transformation PLEAD has enabled in Lamu. Both required vision, investment, and a refusal to accept that marginalization is inevitable.

Thanks to the European Union's support through PLEAD and UNDP's implementation, trying is now possible in Lamu. Mobile courts bring justice to remote islands. ADR centers resolve family conflicts before they escalate. Digital systems connect citizens to courts from their local police stations. Coordinated response systems protect survivors of gender-based violence.

But as Wallid makes clear, the work is far from finished. Sixty years of marginalization cannot be reversed in a few years of programming. The systems are fragile, dependent on continued support and investment.

"If there is support, please continue supporting these actors and also continue supporting these processes since we are not yet there," Wallid urges. "We want to be there, but we are not yet there."

For the people of Lamu, for women seeking protection from violence, for families resolving inheritance disputes, for communities demanding accountability, PLEAD has been more than a programme. It has been a lifeline to justice itself. And that lifeline must not be cut.


Acknowledgement: This story draws on an interview with Wallid, Executive Director of MUHURI, reflecting on PLEAD’s impact across Lamu County, and on PLEAD programme documentation. We gratefully acknowledge the European Union for its steadfast partnership and support to the PLEAD initiative in Kenya, co‑implemented by UNDP and UNODC with national justice institutions and civil society.

About the author

Muviazalwa Ibrahim is a Communications Associate, UNDP Kenya