Africa has long been known for its vibrant fabrics and intricate weaving techniques and has a rich textile heritage. One such fabric that holds deep cultural significance in West Africa, particularly Ghana, is the Kente. Kente cloth is a brightly colored, hand-woven fabric that has a significant cultural and historical significance in West African countries such as Ghana and Nigeria. The intricate designs and patterns on Kente cloth are not only visually striking but also carry symbolic meanings that represent different values and concepts such as wisdom, unity, and loyalty. Kente cloth is often worn on special occasions such as weddings, funerals, and festivals, and is regarded as a symbol of cultural pride and heritage. The production of Kente cloth also involves a communal effort, with different members of the community contributing to the weaving process, emphasizing the importance of unity and cooperation.

In addition to its cultural significance, the Kente industry has played a crucial role in the economic development of many communities. The production of Kente provides employment for thousands of people, from the weavers to the traders who sell the finished products. The demand for Kente has also led to the growth of associated industries such as dyeing and spinning. The popularity of Kente has also helped to raise the profile of West African fashion and design globally. The use of Kente in modern fashion and clothing has become increasingly popular, not only in West Africa but also in other parts of the world. This has helped to promote West African culture and heritage and has created new opportunities for local designers and entrepreneurs.

However, in recent years, Kente weavers have faced an increasing problem - the influx of second-hand clothing, often known as “bend-down-select” or “obroni wawu” in local parlance. Concerns have been expressed concerning the influence of this occurrence on the local textile sector, notably the manufacture and use of Kente material. 

The Rise of Second-Hand Clothes in Africa:

According to a report by the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), Africa imports around USD 30 billion’s worth of second-hand clothes each year. The kente textile industry faces several challenges that impact its profitability and sustainability. Firstly, low purchasing power among consumers due to low wages, unemployment, and poverty means that weavers and textile producers must lower their prices to remain competitive, affecting their profitability. Secondly, imported fabrics pose stiff competition, making it difficult for local weavers to compete in the market. Thirdly, the industry faces a shortage of skilled workers due to the lack of training opportunities and migration to other industries or countries. Fourthly, limited access to finance makes it challenging for weavers and textile producers to invest in their businesses and expand operations. 

Lastly, climate change affects the production of raw materials, leading to higher production costs, which can ultimately be passed on to consumers, making kente textiles less affordable. This has led to a decline in demand for locally produced textiles, with some African countries experiencing up to 80% reduction in textile production over the past three decades. Additionally, a study by the African Development Bank (AfDB) estimates that the importation of second-hand clothes costs African economies over $1.2 billion annually in lost revenue, further highlighting the detrimental impact of this trade on the continent.

While the importation of second-hand clothes has provided affordable clothing options for many Africans, it has also had a significant impact on the Kente textile industry, including its production and consumption. Kente holds great cultural significance and is highly valued for its intricate patterns and vibrant colors. However, of the rapid expansion of the second-hand clothing has impacted local weavers’ livelihoods and the overall textile trade in Africa. To address these challenges, an innovation experiment was conducted in 2021, involving a collaboration between the Africa Borderlands Centre, UNDP Ghana, and UNDP Togo Accelerator Labs. 

The project sought to assist Kente weavers by encouraging innovation in its production process, design, and marketing, with the goal of enhancing the Kente value chain. UNDP’s entry points into the Kente value chain were founded on the evaluative principles of diversifying the range of woven products, improving branding, enhancing weave quality, restoring livelihoods for those dependent on Kente, and improving their income streams. These activities takes into consideration, sensitivities around cultural and spitirual significance of the Kente.

The innovation experiment was conducted through a series of community immersions, design thinking sessions, and prototyping activities involving Kente weavers, textile experts, and other stakeholders. The Africa Borderlands Centre provided the required technical framing and financial resources, while UNDP Ghana and UNDP Togo AccLabs facilitated the coordination and execution of the experiment. The experiment was carried out in Aflao border area and among three communities; Agbozume; Kilkor and Aflao which are recognized for their Kente weaving traditions, with a focus on including local weavers throughout the process.

The experiment aimed to improve the Kente weaving industry by training 44 weavers on capacity-building activities, quality systems, and processes related to standard Kente weaving. The training resulted in improved skills and knowledge related to quality Kente weaving, entrepreneurship, and product development. The weavers produced eight new designs of Kente with improved quality and standards and created four new diverse Kente products. The experiment helped to improve the creativity and innovation of the weavers, which could lead to increased demand for their products and increased competitiveness and profitability in the market.

Outcome for Quality, Sustainability, and Collaboration:

The innovation experiment yielded several positive changes. First, it led to the development of new weaving techniques that improved the efficiency and quality of Kente production. For instance, weavers experimented with different yarns, dyes, and loom designs to create innovative patterns and textures. This resulted in unique and contemporary Kente designs that appealed to modern customers, opening new market opportunities for Kente textiles.

Second, the experiment promoted sustainable practices in Kente production. Weavers explored the use of eco-friendly dyes and natural fibers, reducing the environmental impact of the textile production process. This aligns with the global push for sustainable fashion and supports the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs), particularly Goal 12 on responsible consumption and production.

Third, the experiment encouraged collaboration and knowledge sharing among Kente weavers, textile experts, and other stakeholders. Through workshops and design thinking sessions, weavers learned from each other's experiences, exchanged ideas, and built networks. This fostered a sense of community and cooperation among the weavers, enhancing their capacity to innovate and adapt to changing market demands.

One of the participants in the Kente innovation experiment was Emmanuel Kumedzna, a youth and Kente weaver from Aflao border said: